Friday, December 9, 2011

derailed.

I was on a decent writing track.  And then the train was derailed.  Classes, lesson plans, meetings, rehearsals, trips, and other errands got in the way of my writing discipline.  Although I wouldn't really say it was much of a discipline in the first place; more like a way to inform all of you what I've been up to.  Of course, there's Facebook, and since most of you are connected there as well, what's the point of keeping a blog if I can post photos and little snippets of information there?  But I think blogs do have a point.  Here, I can post, perhaps, more private thoughts, that I don't want ALL nine-hundred and forty-six of my "friends" on Facebook to read on their Newsfeeds.

At any rate, I owe you, readers, yet another apology for falling behind.  I need an outlet, and I think this medium will serve me well.  I hope to get some photos up this weekend of things I've done and places I've been since August, and then I want to start a writing ritual that I've seen on a few friends' blogs.  Until next time.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

always learning.

One post a month ain't bad, right?  Quick update:  Still working on residency.  Documents are in the mail or waiting for me in the post office, still need to get a criminal background check from the Salvadoran National Police, and do a few other things.  However, still on track to meet the September deadline.  

As of mid-June, I've been teaching full-time.  This means, folks, that instead of being the fun volunteer who showed up twice a month for "English Lab" and played super-cool Coldplay and Beatles songs, I am now responsible for classroom behavior, homework, grades, lesson plans, more grades, and feeling the huge weight that I must produce something ... the "product" in this case being students who are able to speak, or at least pronounce, English, and who will be well-equipped for whoever fills the even-popular English Teacher Spot next year.  And, forgive me, folks, but I am frustrated as hell.  Because I was once the fun friendly gringa who came to do exciting activities, who became a friend rather than a teacher, in this more formal role I feel I am failing.  I never once took an education class, let alone an English education class or a Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages class.  I feel completely lost.  I don't have a book because the previous teacher didn't make the kids buy one (he relied on stapled packets instead) and it's too late in the year for me to ask them to buy a book.  

I don't want to be selfish, but I didn't come to El Salvador to be a teacher.  I came to help, to offer my services to others in education, other English teachers, but to be a full-fledged TEACHER of CHILDREN ... I did not sign up for that.  I know a huge part of living in Latin America is learning to be flexible, but I also believe there is a point at which one must speak up and speak out.  The old teacher came back to work with just the 10th and 11th grade students, and I still have 7th through 9th.  15 hours of class time shrank to 9, but it's still a lot.  

I feel like my skills are much more useful elsewhere.  I don't want to do a disservice to the students or the school by not knowing what the hell I'm doing, but the last few times I've brought this up in conversation, folks say Oh but you're doing a wonderful job!  It doesn't matter that you don't have the methodology or the training to be a formal teacher ... you speak English so that's a huge help!  Yes, folks, I was born speaking English.  It is my first language.  But I was not born teaching it.

When I go home in November to visit (yes, that's right, I'll be stateside for a few weeks) I am going to take an afternoon and write down some goals for the next year.  And I am going to make some conditions.  Not just for me, but for the next BVSer down the road, if and when someone decides they have an interest in Emmanuel Baptist Church.  Condition number one:  Church membership is all fine and dandy, and at first helps someone to feel part of a community, but serving on committees or constant participation in worship is a bit much.  Let's back off a little.  Condition number two:  Unless otherwise stated by the volunteer, said volunteer will help with English classes.  Said volunteer will not be expected to take on an entirely different role in which he or she has no training.  Condition number three:  I can't think of a third but I'm sure I'll come up with something.  Writing these out sounds really selfish, but there have to be boundaries.  I am finding myself "working" nearly 6 days a week, plus participation every Sunday in worship as part of the worship band ... In orientation BVS staff told us to get involved.  I think I got myself over-involved, and now feel like there's no way out without damaging relationships.  However, I feel like some time at home with my family will be a good time to deepen these reflections, and a point at which I can say "These are the things that are working really well for me, and these are the things that are not."

On the upside, I spent 2 hours today singing with some friends just for fun.  We're going to learn some songs, brush up on some we already know, and go out into the world and see if anyone wants to listen to us ... I am really excited!  We'll see what comes of it.  If we decide to name ourselves, I'll let you know ... Our repertoire, besides several songs by Guardabarranco, Mercedes Sosa, and others, include Imagine by John Lennon and three songs by Creedence Clearwater Revival.  Music really is the international language.  It was such a relaxing time.  And we're doing it again tomorrow.  

Hopefully I'll have some photos soon from things I've done over the last month or so.  For now, though, time to get some shut-eye before I have to set foot in a classroom again.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

How to get Salvadoran Residency

1)  Hire a lawyer.  My friend Lauren, a former BVSer in Honduras, was told right off the bat that she should hire a lawyer to get her Honduran residency.  Had I not already been waist-deep in the process, I would have done the same.

2)  You will need several documents from the United States.  First, a criminal background check from each state you've lived in for the last 2 years.  Also, an original copy (aka a copy certified by the state, not just a photocopy) of your birth certificate.  Each of these documents must be notarized in the US, and then "authenticated" by your state's Department of State with an Apostille stamp.  Your documents must be translated by an official translator.  Use the US Embassy's website to find out who are "official" and who are not.  If you're lucky, and come to El Salvador after I finish my BVS placement, you might find me here ... as a translator ... in which case I will happily help you through the very confusing process.  Post translation, all documents and translations MUST be notarized by a Salvadoran notary.  And signed by the translator.

3)  A letter from Mr Dan McFadden himself as BVS Director saying that you are being "sent" to your placement.  It will also need to be notarized, Apostille-d, translated, and notarized again, as per the other documents.  They (Immigration) won't tell you this off the bat, so you'll probably waste 3 or 6 months thinking you have everything together ... like I did.  And then they'll tell you 3 days before (or in my case, 3 months after) you become illegal and you'll have to either high tail it out of the C4 region (Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Honduras) before your visa expires OR pay a hefty fine of $114.29.

4)  Do not, whatever you do, assume that C4 means EU.  Or that the countries are like states in the US, where you can travel mostly freely across borders and still be under the same federal jurisdiction.  Salvadorans can travel through the C4 countries with just their national ID card, or DUI (pronounced Dewey), but you, my friend, cannot.  You must have a valid visa.  Immigration will not tell you this when you go for your first encounter with them.  And, taking your documents to the border does not mean anyone will help you out if you are illegal.  Nor will they really help you in the office in San Salvador either.  To get your new 3 month stamp WITHOUT LEAVING EL SALVADOR you have to have all your paperwork in order and TURN IT IN.  Then they'll finally smile and give you your stamp.  Hopefully.

5)  Fees:  Be prepared to shell out quite a bit for translations.  Cost is per page, generally.  Notarizations will also cost you per page, and immigration will charge you $121.43 when you turn everything in.  We're talking around $500 for a 1-year residency.  No longer can you do a 2-year deal.  If you hire a lawyer, they'll do the whole process for around $400, and then you'll still have to pay immigration.  Doing the math in terms of leaving every 3 months, let's assume you head to Mexico via Tica Bus.  16 hours round trip, about $75 for the bus ticket, plus lodging in Mexico and food along the way.  Going to run you between $100 and 125ish each time.  4 times per year, for 2 years ... at least $800 to leave and come back.  Not to mention the time you've spent going.  If you're like me, you always feel like you have a million things to do and don't really want to just leave it all to go get a stamp on your passport ... but of course, in life, there are always necessary evils.

6)  When you travel through the C4 countries, Honduras and Guatemala will want to give you 90 more days on your passport when you enter and/or exit.  You'll have to explain that you live in El Salvador, US State #52, and that you have to have a stamp from outside of C4 in order to get Guatemala's or any other C4 country's 90-day visa.  Sometimes, you will encounter nice people on the Salvadoran side of the border who want to help you out and are sorry you sort of got screwed by immigration in the city ... and then you will encounter nice employee's boss who will give you a lecture about being illegal and tell you there's no excuse for not having your paperwork turned in, regardless of whatever your reason is for not having completely fulfilled the document transmission.  You will then likely feel about the size of a pea, and decide to help others out by showing everyone immigration's hidden secrets.

7)  I've written this in a pretty cynical tone, I think, but it's all true.  And, immigration will change their rules from time to time to keep you on your toes.

8)  Make sure when you order documents from the US, the people on the other end of the line (well, if you're smart, you'll do this ahead of time and get to immigration as soon as you arrive in-country, and then get the process moving either by hiring someone or making sure the person who is designated to help you knows what they're doing ... it's good to trust people.  But maybe sometimes hold your cards a little close to you ... ) know that this is an URGENT matter and that they can't dilly-dally in their processing.  Your documents expire 3 months from the date issued, and if they're expired, you have to request new ones.  And possibly new translations.  So, stay on your toes, and make sure your project knows about all this.  If they don't, call me.  I will come help.  And if I'm back in the US, call anyway, and I'll make a trip down to visit / help you :)

9)  Just put all your cards on the table and accept one of the 12,000 offers of marriage you'll receive within the first 3 weeks of being here.  Kidding.  But it's crossed my mind.  It crossed quickly.  Certainly would make things with immigration much easier ...

10)  Breathe.  I should take my own advice.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

What's so special about El Salvador?

Answer:  Archbishop Oscar Romero and Salvadoran hospitality.  In short.

Here are photos from the March 24th events surrounding the commemoration of Romero's martyrdom in 1980.

And, there are photos from the Easter Build in Alegria, as well as my little vacation there a couple weeks ago.

Early morning devotional
Colegio Bautista Emmanuel

"In the name of God, stop the violence!"

The Mediation Team helped out with the devotional as well.

Rally with youth groups from the rural communities

Fatima, one of the youth from Cuscatlan, firing up the others!

Greetings from the US of A.

Walking from the hospital chapel where Romero was martyred, to the cathedral downtown.



Making our way downtown.

Point B - the Cathedral

The procession of leaders in the ecumenical commemorative service
March 24, 2011


Afternoon worship service in the church, commemorating Oscar Romero
The woman on the left, just in front, is Romero's niece, and works tirelessly to keep his legacy alive.

Working on one of the houses in Alegria
I admit I call it "my house" because I'm good friends with the family who lives there now.

Working on "my house" ... check me out, Dad!

My house.

Canadians, me, and Manuel, one of the owners and a very good friend

Coffee plants in bloom

Crepes with strawberries and ice cream
And the BEST Americano ever.  Sorry, K'mo ... 

Good Friday meant "alfombras" or sand pictures on the streets to celebrate Easter

Vacation started with an apple pie.  I even achieved the cavernous effect ... the apples cooked down but the crust stayed put ... Only the second time ever in my life that an apple pie has turned out as such.  I count it as an achievement because Grandma's pies are often that way as well.  I used Gala apples, a little sugar, nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon.  It was a huge hit.

Next mural at KenapocoMocha?

Hangin' out with the neighborhood kids / cousins of my friends in "my house"

View from where I stayed

Spent an afternoon at Cartagena, a restaurant / coffee shop where my friends work.  Good fun.

Orlando making my Americano

Spent 3 days in Alegria ... didn't want to come back to the city ... 
And we got a flat.  Fate?  Maybe, but we were eventually on our way.

Not much has happened since my vacation.  Moved into an apartment 2 blocks from the church.  Very nice to have my own space, do my own cooking, etc.  New Community Project has a group coming in July, so I've been busy with planning their itinerary and such.  Tomorrow I'm heading to Alegria to do some negotiating and such (it sounds so much better in Spanish - "cotizar"), see where the NCP folks can stay, who will provide food, meet with the folks they'd like to speak with, etc.  Should be a nice day.  Two girlfriends are coming from the US in a couple weeks.  Very much looking forward to their visit!  Until I have more photos ... 


Thursday, May 12, 2011

Our house is your house.

I took a few days off this week to visit some friends in Alegria.  I think I learned more about myself and God and community in those three days than in the last few months in San Salvador.  City life is city life.  Anywhere.

I want to share this song with you. It's my current manifesto / mantra / message.  (Ahem, Marlys, pay no attention to the grammar ... I wanted to get the message across more than do a direct translation!)

"Casa Abierta" - Guardabarranco

Quiero estar bien con mis hermanos                                   I want to be well with my brothers
De norte a sur al fin de mundo                                           From the north to the south to the end of the world
Saber oir y dar mis manos                                                 Know how to listen and give my hands
Sudar jugando algo bien sano                                            To sweat playing something really healthy

Todos aqui somos hermanos                                              We're all brothers
Que mas me da el color, la raza                                         That give me my color, my race
Dentro tenemos sentimientos                                              Inside we have feelings
Que necesitan de sustento                                                  That need support
Si adentro hay buenos sentimientos                                     If there are good feelings inside
No se pueden quedar adentro                                            They can't stay inside

Aqui esta mi casa abierta                                                    Here's my open house
Hay un plato por ti en nuestra mesa                                    There's a plate for you at our table
Sombra de arbol para tu cabeza                                         A tree's shadow for your head
Libro abierto a tu vida mi puerta                                  Your life is an open book and my door is open for you
Casa abierta                                                                       Our house is open
La amistad no cuestiona tu credo                                        Friendship doesn't question your beliefs
A la tierra le gusta que amemos                                          The land wants us to love each other
Sin distinguos de culto y bandero                                        Regardless of our religion or flag

Hard to translate, but I think I got the gist of things.  It's a beautiful song, and totally sums up the last 3 days.  Go find them on iTunes.

Thursday, May 5, 2011

It's been a while

I don't think I could ever be a professional blogger.  My readers would riot if I posted so irregularly ... Oh, wait. I post irregularly anyway.  Thank you for not rioting, faithful readers.

March was, well, fast.  Pretty uneventful up until the end of the month.  On the 19th I went with my host mom and her two boys to a patron saint festival out in the country.  Fact: many towns and villages are named for Catholic saints, so on or around the particular saint's day for which the town is named, they throw a huge fiesta.  For those of you in PA / "the Cove", think Martinsburg's July 4th festival, but on a smaller scale.  There is junk food (read: fried yucca, French fries, STEAK, pupusas), fireworks, music, a procession, and dancing.  Oh, and cheap beer for those who choose to partake.  I had a lovely time away from the city, meeting Claudia's family and friends, and making new friends.  And the dance was a blast, even though it was less merengue and salsa and more reggaeton.
The church in San Jose.

Only the bell tower and entrance are original.  The rest was destroyed in the civil war, but has been rebuild by the residents of the village.

Processional

Patron Saint of San Jose ... Jose

The next day was like a family reunion.  Everyone hanging around Claudia's cousin's house, eating fresh mangoes, visiting, relaxing in hammocks.  And did I remember to take photos?  Nope.  Too busy trying not to get up and thus lose my hammock!

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

West Side Story.

Up until now, my posts have been about places I've been or people I've met or meals I've cooked.  Well, it's time to change gears.  Let's talk about culture shock, privilege, and other such theories that exist that I've not really experienced before ... until now.

February has been a crazy month.  Crazy with work, crazy with fun outings, new beginnings, etc.  On the work side of things, we started the selection process and training for our group of peer mediators in Colegio Bautista Emmanuel.  It's definitely not easy to get a group of 10 people together, let alone when security is an issue.  It's not terribly safe to be out past dark, and we can't let the kids take the bus at night, etc., so we've settled for meeting every Tuesday from 3:30pm - 5pm.  And the teachers had an inservice day last Friday, so we were able to take advantage of that time and have a decent meeting with the peer mediators.  We're still in the theory part of things ... it's like teaching 4 years of peace studies in 6 hours ... and are slowly moving on to communication exercises and the mediation process.  And we're trying to keep everything in context.  Josue did a really great job of giving sort of a cultural / contextual overview on Friday, and we each made a pyramid of the 5 gravest problems (in our opinions) in El Salvador.  On Tuesday, then, I did the same thing, but we talked about it in the context of the colegio.  It was really helpful for me to understand where the students are coming from, their opinions on things, etc.  There is definitely a need for peace education, and we two crazies are moving forward with our program.

About a month ago, I had the privilege of being invited to a wedding.  My friend Douglas, whom I met through my friend Carlos, is from the western region of El Salvador, Sonsonate.  And he wanted to take me along a) to experience another part of El Salvador, and b) to experience a Salvadoran wedding.  Man, was it fun and relaxing!  I loved it.  And he has two adorable daughters, Alejandra and Sofia, who came along as well.  It was a huge family affair, and they were all very welcoming and friendly.  I've met a couple of his family members before, so it was nice to continue to get to know them and to meet others.  That Sunday, then, we zipped around to a few little towns outside Sonsonate.  (Well, the wedding was actually in Nahuizalco), and from there, we went to Salcoatitan, Juayua, and Apaneca.  Beautiful mountain countryside.  And coffee plantations.  Just gorgeous.  It's so interesting/strange/sad/disturbing to live in a country that is so beautiful, but yet because of the poverty and violence, most Salvadorans don't have the chance to experience the beauty.


For all you train fans / Pennsylvanians, there's a railroad track in the middle of Sonsonate.  And the train says PHILADELPHIA on it.  Small world.

Not the best shot of the church, but hopefully you can see it's beautiful.  The egghead standing up in the middle of the ceremony is Douglas; he was charged with taking photos and video for the day.

My favorite photo from the whole weekend.  Finally figuring out camera settings ... 

Town cathedral, Juayua

Shops and touristy things, Juayua

Coffee in its natural habitat.  Coffee beans come from cherries.  These are the cherries.
Laguna Verde, Apaneca

As if I don't get out much, Josue and Karen took me to the beach a couple weeks ago.  So nice to get away and soak up some vitamin D!

Playa San Blas, La Libertad


Catching some waves.  The waves eventually caught my sunglasses.  Oh well.

MS.  18.  Do these letters and numbers mean anything to you?  Multiple Sclerosis ... voting age.  Gangs?  They're the two main gangs here in El Salvador, and throughout Central America.  They started in Los Angeles, believe it or not, and with deportations of undocumented Mexicans and Central Americans, the violence has filtered down into these tiny and impoverished banana republics.  A lot of people think Venezuela is the most dangerous country in Latin America, but in terms of people per square mile, El Salvador has a much higher rate of violence.  About 7 million inhabitants in 21,049 square kilometers.  Do the math.  

Over the last few months, I've felt pretty safe and secure.  I witnessed one assault on a bus back from a mall on the other side of San Salvador, but nothing else.  Just as I was beginning to feel comfortable, things have begun to get a little warm.  A couple weeks ago, the pupuseria (aka restaurant that makes pupusas) on the corner beside the youth center was robbed.  There is a barber shop across the street that "has its way of settling things."  To show that gangs have control of an area, they not only paint graffiti and symbols on buildings, but ask for "renta" or rent from businesses.  Most business owners won't give them anything ... and then come the threats.  This also happens with the buses in the city.  Rent is demanded from the drivers, and if they don't give anything, threats.  Assaults, sometimes homicides, etc.  So, the pupuseria, where I often ate breakfast or lunch when I had early meetings or wanted to go with friends, was robbed the other week.  The folks in the barber shop, according to neighbors, are informants for 18.  They're asking for rent from the area businesses, and last night, there were consequences for one of the businesses.  A small auto-parts shop was set on fire ... 4 doors down from the house I share with the church secretary, her brother, and her twin boys.  And because the homes on our block are not very far apart (think 2 feet of space) or are like duplexes, we had to leave the house and go into the street.  3:30 in the morning.  The smoke was so black and thick and the flames were coming out of the windows, and things inside the shop were exploding.  It was quite the scene.  At first I figured it was probably an accident.  And then as I was sitting there watching the police mill around and the firefighters put out the blaze, I wondered if it was because the owner refused to pay rent to the gang ... I found out this morning that that was likely the case.  There is an older woman on our street who is like a vigilante, I swear she never sleeps, and apparently she saw someone throw something into the shop, and then it started to burn.

So, today's been a little rough.  Not only because of lack of sleep, but I'm a little freaked out.  Like I said, I've felt pretty safe, up until now.  And such privilege, to have been raised in a country, or rather, in a part of the US where the most dangerous thing that could happen is a car accident because of bad winter roads.  People here have such a strong faith in God.  I admit I don't.  Or rather, my faith doesn't seem to be nearly as strong as theirs.  And now I have an idea why.

I don't write this so you all worry.  I write this because I felt like I needed to organize my thoughts, and I wanted to let you know that it's not all sunshine and teddy bears, even though that's what I often portray.  I still love it here.  But it's difficult sometimes.